In just over a week the 3 Fashion Houses that produce Cruise Collections have held their 2016 shows, introducing equally amazing collections. This brings me to another of my little fashion lessons, for those that hear this fashun jargon thrown around but never really know what it means.
A ‘Cruise’ Collection is a line of ready-to-wear that is produced inter-season or pre-season, those seasons being S/S or A/W. The in-season shows, presented in the twice-yearly Fashion Weeks are more so ‘trade shows’ as they are presenting fashion. They’re attended by editors, designers, photographers, buyers and a lot of press. They’re about setting trends, and attracting buyers. Cruise collections give the designer more of an opportunity to make a collection that is appreciated for what it is, and really show their creative point of view.
The main 3 fashion houses that regularly present Cruise Collections are Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Dior, but Gucci is having a crack in a couple of weeks in New York. They’re mainly invitation only, most of the guest list being clients of the fashion house, and are presented in extravagantly fabulous locations.
Louis Vuitton personally flew in 550 guests to Palm Springs in LA, putting up everyone in luxury accommodation and treated to amazing presents. The collection, designed by LV head designer Nicolas Ghesquière and presented in the former home of Bob Hope, was inspired by ‘Americana charm’, combining the futuristic and modern nature of Palm Springs with the laid back California spirit. The collection showcased a multitude of different prints and textures; there were light paisleys, flowing maxis in tribal designs, and there were snakeskin-like embroideries, dark lambskins, and studded leathers. The traditional evening gown got an upgrade, with cut-out leathers and heavy wools.
Shoutout to Adelaide superstar Maddison Stubbington. Kill-ing It.
As all runway shows are, it was attended by a guest list of models, actors, singers, rappers and fashion elites, including Kanye, Miranda Kerr, Marisa Tomei, Miroslava Duma and Australian blogger Gary Pepper Girl. The show was followed of course by an after party, featuring a skill tester full of LV bags. Ha. Yeah kay. Check out the whole collection on the LV website
On the other side of the Atlantic, Raf Simons showed the Dior Cruise 2016 at Le Palais Bulles – a palace perched on a cliffside between Cannes and Monaco. Simons didn’t stray too far from the Dior heritage in the collection, referring to the classic femme fleur but combined with abstract features; shimmery fabrics, crystal florals and netted overdresses. The plaids evoked the feminine nature but still looked strong with sharp cuts.
A dominant fabric featuring throughout was the super cool gradient-style stripes. The other dresses with girlish flicks on the hem are totally wearable, and bring a more relaxed and stylish update to the drop-waist trend. The whole collection in fact was a fresh take on light knits and patch working, and had an overall organic and resort feel. Stylish attendees included Zoe Kravitz, Marion Cotilliard and Teresa Palmer.
One continent over, Chanel presented a Korean-inspired Cruise collection in Seoul, which combined traditional styles of Korean dress with the crazy styles of K-Pop. You might not have heard a heap about it last week because Karl Lagerfeld picked the same night as the Met Gala to show, but it still attracted a stellar audience of fashionites and celebrites (including regular Chanel girls Tilda Swinton, Gisele Bundchen and Kristen Stewart).
The collection is an updated take on Asian influence, which until now has mostly shown features of Chinese and Japanese dress. The style combines flared silhouettes and beautifully embellished fabrics that mimic traditional Korean dress, but also structured features to reflect styles worn by women and men of nobility. As well as the pales and whites of the gowns and pant suits, the collection was accented by bright colours and cool cuts inspired by K-Pop, Korean’s burgeoning trend in music and fashion. Never to stray to far from the traditional Chanel look, Lagerfeld showed some classic Chanel tweeds and knits matching the collection’s palette.
(Images via Vogue.com, Style.com, us.louisvuitton.com, Gianni Pucci/Indigitalimages.com, Benoît Peverelli/Chanel, Han Myung-gu/Getty Images)